Used Car Inspection Step #3 - Cold Engine Check
Open the hood on the used car before you get in. Make sure the engine is cool (from sitting overnight). The first start of the day is critical to spotting oil usage and other problems. You should assume the seller knows this. Therefore, if it has been started, it may have the problems that are more obvious on the first start of the day.
Check:
- Oil level. Some people are much better than others about keeping their fluid levels correct. Look at the color, if it is milky, consider thanking the seller and leaving. This is an expensive problem; a significant percentage of the value of a used car is the engine. If it is black and dirty (or worse, gritty), the oil is old and / or the car has been driven hard.
- Remove the cap where you add engine oil, and use your flashlight to note the condition of the inside of the engine. A well oiled machine will look clean and not have a "burned on" look.
- Step back and look at the engine overall to see if it looks like things have been replaced. You can tell if some parts are quite a bit cleaner than others. If the engine is either dirtier or cleaner than the parts around it, it may have been replaced. If it has, and you have not been told, suspect the worst. Alternators and water pumps are commonly replaced around 80,000 miles.
- Look at the fit and finish in general. Are there crumpled spots, or any other evidence of an accident? Use your magnet to make sure the car is metal and not Bondo which is used to replace rusted out or damaged areas.
- Look at the door hinges for condition. They are often damaged in accidents and the welds (required for repair) look different. Also, look at the door hinge area to see if the car has been repainted, you can often see overspray in hard to reach areas.
- Check the level of the transmission fluid. Automatic transmission fluid should be red (not brown) and should not smell burnt. A transmission problem can be expensive (start at about $1000) to fix.
- MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS NOT HOT. Then check the engine coolant by removing the radiator cap. If the engine is hot, skip the test and assume the worst. It should be green (or perhaps red) but IT SHOULD NOT LOOK RUSTY. It should smell like chestnuts.
- Look at the container where you add Brake fluid. It should be marked and is generally on the driver side near the rear of the engine compartment. If it is low, it could be leaking, or the brake pads might need replacing. The further down the brakes are worn, the lower that level goes. Refilling the brake fluid is overlooked by most car owners.
- Look at the belts and hoses for cracks and signs of wear. Belts and hoses are less expensive than the other areas in this inspection, but are sometimes a good indication of how well maintained a vehicle is.
- Look under the car to see if it is leaking anything. Here is a Color Code of the Puddles:
- Oil is black or golden brown like honey
- Transmission fluid is red or sometimes brown
- Coolant is usually yellow-green
- Water sometimes drips from the Air Conditioning condenser, this is normal.(passenger side slightly forward of the dashboard)
- Walk around the car and note the condition, brand and size of the tires (size example: P215/70R-15). Are the tires all the same? If they are different, get an explanation. How much tread is left, are the tires worn evenly? Uneven wear could mean suspension / front end problems. A set of tires is fairly expensive (start at about $250, significantly more for sports cars). Front end problems start at about $500. If the tires have been replaced significantly before 40,000 miles, be suspicious, ask why.
- Pull and push on the top of each tire, you should not be able to make a clunking noise. If you do, you can assume that hundreds of dollars of suspension work (or more) is required.
- Look in the trunk. Does the car have a functional spare, jack and a lug wrench? How about the key for specialized lugs?
- Look under the mat in the trunk. Is it smooth? Evidence of a wreck or water damage is sometimes most evident under the trunk mat.
- Look down each side of the used car. Is it straight?
- Look underneath the used car for any waves in the frame. Has this car been bent and straightened out?
- Use your mirror and flashlight to look at the springs under the driver's seat to look for rust. If there is rust, the car has been exposed to water. Water damaged cars tend to have repeated and expensive problems.
- Look at the brake pedal for wear. Is the wear consistent with the odometer mileage? Heavy use of the brake often means the car has been driven hard.
Leave the hood open for the next step.
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